Day 18 – Friday, February 13, 2026
Regarding Friday the 13th, I have been superstitious since in elenentary schoola substitute teacher gave me two some that day. Let us see whether Faith had anything in store for me..
Ahead was an ascent of 50 km and 1,,750 meters. Well, I will admit to not having broken a speed record, but did 99% of it. My surroundings were as barren as it gets, but I marveled at the colors and contours of the mountains polished by the wind. Talking of winds, when finally the road leveled out somewhat t, I gave a big smile and stopped for sone food (which I was carrying). I thought from there on, it would be a fun ride. You guessed it - I had the strongest headwind of the kast 15 years or so. I was struggling; stopping to catch my breadr at every kilometer-stone.
My water was running low, even though I packed 8 liters (four 1,5 liter bottles and two smaller ones. The first refresher was served by the Ministry of Useless Works, a truck full of yellow-clad road workers, who were cleaning the otherwise impeccable road signs. Too much taxpayer money to waste? Muchas gracias for the water, though! The next source was so typical Chilean...I stopped to catch my breadth, when an 18-wheeler coming from the opposite direction stopped as well and a large, ice-cold water bottle appeared. I shall never ever forget this!
I reached the turn-off for the Paranal Observatory, where two things happened. A pickup truck pulled next to me and the driver said - in GERMAN - "dies ist eine Privatstrasse", then switched to English. I assured him we could continue in German. It turned out he was the head of security at the observatory. After sone haggling, he told me to continue to the security gate and I smiled.
Too early. The road was extremely steep and as I had mentioned, I am heavily loaded. Memories of Kosovo about 3 years ago became vivid - a km short of the game, my rear hub gave in. This means when I pedal, it goes to Nirvana. Another security guard saw me walking uphill and picked me up with his truck. Thanks! Another thanks to Christian, the German head of security. He allowed me to pitch my tent within the secured perimeter, behind the gate. Vielen Dank!
Just wanted to share a spectacular sunset- with this yellow thing dropping into the camanchaca. Now you see it, now you don't.
A guard came to me and offered to open up the visitors center for the night, with free coffee/tea and a spacious bathroom. How very nice! I think God must have given kindness to all nations - and the Chileans were last in line. Whatever was left - and must have been quite some - was spread to them. Or, as I already expressed, I am in kind of a Truman Show, with actors being hired to give me water, lodging, a lift if needed...who knows.
Some memories: around twenty years ago, I biked on the Big Island of Hawaii, there I rode from sea level to 3,000 meters and hitchhiked with two guys in rheir Jeep to the top. There are two observatories, KEG I and KEG II. We rang the bell, the first person wanted to send us away, we asked to see his manager. He came and asked if I was the crazy one snaking up the mountain the previous day. The three of us received a private tour of the facility. The view from up there was just as breathtaking.
Regarding my broken hub, the exact same thing happened in Kosovo, apparently on May 17, 2022. I posted about that trip, here is the link: https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1CNz2HtajB/
The same symptoms - extremely heavy gradient, loaded bike. Dammit. Still, I have faith in the Chilean folks - somehow I will get to next big town, Antofagosta and that I will find a magician to fix my hub... Nite nite!