Day 18 – Friday, February 13, 2026
Regarding Friday the 13th, I have been superstitious since in an elenentary school substitute teacher reprimanded me twice that day. Let us see whether Faith had anything in store for me..
Ahead of me was an ascent of 55 km and 1,750 meters of altitude, more or less. Well, I will admit to not having broken a speed record, still made did 99% of it. My surroundings were as barren as it gets, but I marveled at the colors and contours of the mountains polished by the winds. Talking of winds, when finally the road leveled out somewhat t, I let out a big smile and stopped for some food (which I was carrying). I thought from there on, it would be a fun ride. You guessed it - I had the strongest headwind of the last 15 years or so. I was struggling; stopping to catch my breadth at every kilometer-stone.
I watched a big truck driving out of this mine
A wonderful sunrise
SOmetimes the surroundings were smooth, otheer times real rocky.
The mountains were made smooth by the winds
The clouds you see is above the ocean, and is called Camanchaca
Martian surface
My water was running low, even though I packed 8 liters (four 1,5 liter bottles and two smaller ones). The first refresher was served by the Ministry of Useless Works, a truck full of yellow-clad road workers, who were cleaning the otherwise impeccable road signs. Too much taxpayer money to waste? Muchas gracias for the water, though! The next source was so typical Chilean...I stopped for a quick rest, when an 18-wheeler coming from the opposite direction stopped next to me and a large, ice-cold water bottle appeared. I shall never ever forget this, thanks sooo much!
These road signs were super clean - but then I got a big bottle of water out of this service
I still get emotional when I think about a huge lorry stopping next to me and handing me water
From these guys I got some gin tonic
I reached the turn-off for the Paranal Observatory, where two things happened. A pickup truck pulled next to me and the driver said - in GERMAN - "dies ist eine Privatstrasse", then repeated this in English. I assured him we could continue in German. It turned out he was the head of security at the observatory. After sone haggling, he told me to continue to the security gate and I smiled.
Too early. The road was extremely steep and as I had mentioned, I was heavily loaded. Memories of Kosovo about 3 years ago became vivid - there, just a kilometer short of the border (and the summit), my rear hub gave in. The exact same thing happened here. This means when I pedal, it goes to Nirvana. Another security guard saw me walking the bike uphill and picked me up with his truck. Thanks!
The Paranal VLT observatory of ESO
Another thanks to Christian, the German head of security. He allowed me to pitch my tent within the secured perimeter, behind the gate. Vielen Dank!
Just wanted to share a spectacular sunset - with this yellow thing dropping into the camanchaca. Now you seit, now you don't.
You still see the sun...
...here not anymore...
A guard came and offered to open up the visitors center for the night, with free coffee/tea and a spacious bathroom. How very nice! I think God must have given kindness to all nations - and the Chileans were last in line; whatever was left - and that must have been quite some - was spread to them. Or, as I already expressed, I am in kind of a Truman Show, with actors being hired to give me water, lodging, a lift if needed...who knows.
Some memories: around twenty years ago, I biked on the Big Island of Hawaii, there I rode from sea level to 3,000 meters and hitchhiked with two guys in rheir Jeep to the top. There are two observatories, KEG I and KEG II. We rang the bell, the first person wanted to send us away, we asked to see his manager. He came, recognized my countours and asked if I was the crazy one snaking up the mountain the previous day. I confirmed and the three of us received a private tour of the facility. The view from up there was just as breathtaking.
Regarding my broken hub in Kosovo, I checked and it apparently happened on May 17, 2022. I posted about that trip, here is the link: https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1CNz2HtajB/
The same symptoms - extremely heavy gradient, loaded bike. Dammit.
Still, I have faith in the Chilean folks - somehow I will get to next big town, Antofagosta and that I will find a magician to fix my hub...
Nite nite!